Grown between the Tropic of Cancer and Capricorn, coffee is harvested after a long growing season. After flowering, the fruit ripens over seven to nine months. Farmers producing specialty coffee pick fully ripe fruit to send to the mill to be processed (unless the farm also processes their own coffee). At the mill the fruit is poured into water filled tanks to remove any floaters (unripe fruits) and then hand sorted to remove overripe coffee and any debris such as twigs and leaves. After sorting, the fruit is ready to be processed. The most common way to prepare coffee for drying and hulling is the Washed or Wet process. The skin of the fruit is removed by mechanical action or by fermentation and then either laid out onto patios or raised beds to dry (some mills use mechanical dryers). The seeds (coffee) are raked at regular intervals throughout the day to achieve even drying. Coffees processed by the washed method exhibit clean, bright flavors that highlight origin. The second most popular method is the oldest. Natural or Dry Process is still used where coffee originated in Ethiopia and Yemen and in countries with dry climates. The fruit is dried with the skin intact. The seed (bean) absorbs the fruity flavors resulting in full bodied, sweet coffee with fruity notes. All the other processes are a variation of Washed and Dry methods. Of those, Pulped Natural, is the third most common. Invented in Brazil, the Honey (coined in Costa Rica) or Pulped Natural process leaves the thin, sticky sweet layer called the mucilage on the seed during drying. Coffees processed this way retain terroir while being imparted with subtly sweet, fruity notes. Whichever processing method is used, the coffee dries over several weeks and is then sent to a dry mill where hulling and sorting prepare the coffee for export. The dry mill removes the parchment, which has been left on to protect the seed. The coffee is inspected by hand and with specialized equipment and sorted by size, density, and color. Specialty coffee is usually cupped before the final dry mill stage. At cupping, green buyers will offer a price which the farmer may or may not accept. In order to cup the coffee it is ground coarsely and measured into cups. Water just off the boil is added and the coffee is left to steep for 4 minutes. The dry grounds are analyzed by aroma and then wet aroma is taken in after the crust that has formed on top is broken by spoon. After cooling for 10-15 minutes it is tasted. Much in the same way wine is tasted, it is slurped by sucking in air to aerate the liquid over the palate. Cuppers, which include the farmer, may taste 170 cups from a single day crop. After drying, the specialty coffee is packaged inside of hermetically sealed GrainPro bags and then slipped into jute bags for extra protection. Weighing about 60 kilos, 300 to 320 bags will fill a shipping container (approximately 40,000 lbs of green coffee--containers must be shipped full.) Before the journey to its destination, the bagged coffee rests (reposo) for a couple of months. Although not studied, this resting period is said to improve the flavor. Sometimes a coffee cups higher after arrival, so perhaps there is something to reposo. Specialty coffee is again cupped upon delivery to confirm it was the crop purchased and that nothing occurred during shipping to negatively effect its flavor. Farmers put a great deal of care into how they grow and process specialty coffee hoping to achieve high cupping scores and better prices for their harvest. As roasters we want to highlight all of that work exhibited in an exceptional crop processed to the highest standards. New coffees arrive seasonally. A plan for the roast is mentally formulated based on the origin, elevation grown, variety, and processing method. Rarely is the first roast perfect. Once the coffee is tasted, it becomes apparent where different approaches will yield a better cup. It usually takes several roasts to nail what the roaster is looking for. The ideal roast is based on the personal preference of the roaster. Stratifying coffees with different profiles and processing methods is the first step to creating a unique blend. Much like a chef approaches food, the goal is to layer flavor while keeping clarity and balance. The result of skillfully roasted complementary components is consistency, which often become customer favorites for their reliability.
Transparency
We are customers of the Farmer through the Importer. Unless a roaster is capable of buying 40,000 pounds of coffee at once, holding the licenses and insurances, and dealing with the logistics and bureaucracy required for exporting and importing, they are purchasing through an importer. We purchase organic coffee from small farmers, women farmers, and co-operatives through the most respected brokers in the United States,